Last year I cheated on a birthday dress project because my mother-in-law gave me a beautiful vintage 1950s lace dress…

This year I got SewBusy with less than a week to spare. That is the SewByTheSeatOfYourPantsSewBusy way.

Naturally I opted to pick a dress with at least 15 bodice pieces… because that is the ObstinateSewBusy way.

Naturally I opted to match a fabric with the pattern which was an IN YOUR FACE SewBusy option.

At the Melbourne Frocktails fabric trip in September, we spied a bolt of black/white gingham sitting on the counter at Alannah Hill. Several of us loved it, I think it was MyMessings, Petticoat & Peplums, Busy Lizzie and Bimble & Pimble (I’m getting old – forgive me if you are not in the list…). I suggested we do a Gingham Face-off and see what happened. We decided it could be paired with anything: piping, contrast fabric and whatever took our fancy – just use 2 metres of the fabric (I’ve used much less I think I have enough for a sleeveless shirt!).

I originally planned a shirtdress (my first thought), then I thought a Grainline Archer, then a strapless dress… then I was seized with a severe bout of IndecisiveSewBusy.

Then in one moment, I decided it had to become this…

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Simplicity 2250 – Cynthia Rowley design

Oh course! Let’s pair regular gingham checks with an irregular darted, pleated, seamed bodice with a crazy pleated, gathered skirt – hell yeah. And make those perfectionist stitchers’ eyeballs boil looking at all those mis-matched gingham checks… that’s the SewBusy way.

And I give you The Hot Mess Birthday Dress…

Today is (or was) my birthday. I totally understand if you don’t approve (of the dress – not the birthday). However I love it.

This dress has had mixed reviews… personally, I adored sewing it. I think it’s a little too short – but I love the pattern and would definitely make it again.

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Hot Mess Birthday Dress – the back view

In typical SewBusy way, I loathed this pattern on sight. It was only when I pictured it with this fabric I went YES!, punched the air and purchased it.

Personally, and I totally get if some of you are rubbing your eyes at my crimes against pattern matching right now, I love how this pattern teamed with directional prints or a plain fabric. I think the whole point of all those crazy darts, pleats, tucks, gathers and more, is that you ‘see’ the hot mess of the bodice and skirt. It’s madness and I love it.

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The craziness going on inside the bodice!

The bodice has tucks, darts and pleats. The bodice is underlined and lined. The bodice – without the contrast band, back bands ties and straps is a mere 15 pieces. The skirt is pleated, gathered and flat in places. It’s all kinds of crazy. It’s a blast to sew.

Things I did differently…

I attached the lining to the zip in the same way that the Sewaholic Cambie bodice is lined. I think the way this bodice is finished is messy *sniff*. The Sewaholic way of finishing conceals all the seams – soooo much nicer.

I boned the bodice with Rigalene – it’s easy enough, you just sew the boning to the wrong side of the bodice lining seams (minus the seam allowances). It provides a nice structure to the dress – I recommend this!

I changed the ties to have a straighter shape, the petal/balloon shape of the pattern ties just scared me.

I did do a tiny bit of pattern matching down the centre back bodice seam – don’t know why I bothered as the ties cover it… I marked the seamline on the pattern piece – I find this the easiest way to match checks.

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The line under CB (centre back) is the 5/8 inch seam allowance – I use this line to match the checks

Freaking me out…

The length of the skirt… I added 1.5 inches to the contrast band. I wished I added 2 inches to the main skirt pieces, it’s just sooo short! If I make this again, it’s going to be loooonger.

Final thoughts…This dress has had some shaky reviews and some good ones. It is not a walk in the park but it’s not that difficult either. Really. There are a billion and one steps (I never exaggerate) however if you mark all your notches, dots and more, it’s not that complicated. Really. Just go slow.

Check the finished measurements and choose your size from there. I like about 1 inch of ease in a fitted bodice so I made size 6. If I went by my body measurements, my size would have allowed 2.5 inches of ease in the bodice… way too much for this style of fitted bodice/dress in my humble opinion.

Pattern: Simplicity 2250
Fabric: from Alannah Hill, $10 a metre with black rayon fabric contrasts.

Confessions of a birthday blogger… I have more pictures of the interior of the dress… but it’s my birthday and I wanna have a drink, it’s late… *shuffles off stage left with a glass on Nant in hand…*

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On the beach before Birthday dinner

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Hooray! I am in a state of shock – while I did not manage to punch out a birthday or Christmas make in 2012 – this year I have done both!

Last week it was the Hot Mess Birthday dress - a rather complicated but very pretty and enormously satisfying make.

This week I have my first Minerva Bloggers’ Network project to share.

A Very Merry Christmas Skirt

With my Minerva makes I wanted to make things that I felt anyone (any age, any shape) could wear, sew and feel fabulous in. I also wanted the kit to have pretty much everything they needed to start sewing, or at least most of it… the fabric, pattern and thread. So once you have pounced on the postman, you can rip open the envelope and get sewing. You might need the odd notion or some interfacing – but many stitchers do have these things in ‘the stash’.

I’ve always wanted a ‘Christmas’ skirt or dress but never quite got around to making one (and I have rather a lot of party clothes anyway…). The festive season hits and life is a merry-go-round of parties, concerts, holidays, meals, drinks, family and friends. Life gets busy – no time for sewing…

So make that Christmas skirt now! I’ve chosen a project that will minimise your time at the sewing machine and maximise your time at the party.

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Vogue 8882

I’ve been eyeing off this skirt since Vogue released it – even though big skirts aren’t really my gig I just fell in love with it. When I spied this this lovely shot WINE taffeta on the Minerva site, I felt it was a match made in heaven.

The taffeta transforms in different lights…

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Vogue 8882 as the sun grows down

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The colour transforms when the setting sun hits it! hmmmm, I have that bronzed Aussie look going on as we approach summer…

Bows and frills scare me BUT I can’t imagine the skirt without that monstrous sash and bow. It’s perfection…

As my Christmas Day is never ‘white’ except for the sand on the beach, I paired by skirt with a simple cream tank top and rose gold strappy heels. I think this skirt could easily be translated into a wintery wear – the claret tone looks gorgeous with black (yes, I experimented for you too).

You can read lots more over on the Minerva site… so go over there for more pictures and how-to.

My major changes were…

• Invisible zipper instead of standard.
• I did a roll hem. My legs would look like toothpicks coming out of a even oomph-ier (yes, that’s a technical term) skirt.. If you like lotsa ‘oomph’ I’m guessing you have some petticoats stashed for this purpose!
• Taffeta is not a fan of iron-on interfacing – use sew-in. Listen to SewBossyLizzy and weep no more.

So let’s twirl together this festive season… I know you want to…

This skirt is loads of fun to wear… it even rustles! I’m not a gentled-footed creature. I sound like a mini herd of elephants stampeding through the African grasslands but I’m ok with that.

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…giddy with Happy Happy Joy Joy… and I’d just like to let you know that it takes a lot of concentration to not wedge a stiletto heel into timber decking! Check out the Minerva site where I’m spinnin’ like a whirlgig.

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Miss 8 teaches me to party with attitude!

Pattern: Vogue 8882
Fabric: Wine shot taffeta.
Kit available from Minerva Fabrics – you know you want to – I’ve done all the shopping and pattern testing for you! Sew one and party on (perhaps Miss 8 should do a blog post about party style – she’s got it down to a fine art)

If you are concerned about shipping costs… I purchased 4m of this blue fabric from Minerva (apparently I’m a Shimmer Twill piglet – I need MOAH) and the shipping was just 10 pounds and arrived in no time at all. Love.

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Here’s a quick little post with a Black Friday deal for you!

YouCanMakeThis.com Black Friday – Cyber Monday Sale

11/28/2013 – 12/2/2013

• $5 Deals - Over 100 patterns to choose from for just $5!
• Spend $25 or more and get the new Whimsy Winter Bench Pillow Pattern by Kimberbell for free
• 10% off on all orders over $40

http://www.youcanmakethis.com/featured

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SewBusyLizzy WIPs

Now I must rush too… I just have a Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat pattern test to finish… a ByHandLondon Georgia dress underway and also the long-awaited Lolita Patterns Gunmetal project to finish – had such trouble getting the fabric I want for this project… unfortunately I’m a little obsessive about getting the ‘right’ fabric for a pattern and I have a Gunmetal in my head – I just need to find it in the fabric store. *sigh*

A Very Merry Christmas Skirt Kit Update

If you liked my Christmas Skirt - but found the pattern sizes were not for you – Minerva is quite happy to change over the envelope to the other size – just let them know when ordering the kit Image may be NSFW.
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When Elisalex of By Hand London contacted me and asked if I could like to try their new pattern – I think nearly jumped through the computer screen with excitement.

And here she is…

GEORGIA! As or I call this version… My Georgy Girl.

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The new kid in town – Georgia from By Hand London

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Georgia Dress, the back view

I’ve got about four Georgia dresses buzzing about in my head (she is as demanding as Anna was, I have warned you). However since I have been dying to make a fitted denim dress – this just seemed to be the perfect opportunity!

This is stretch cotton denim from Spotlight. An amazing bargain table find at $4 a metre. It didn’t look that great on the bolt but I love it made up. It’s perfect. Soft blue, faded cream, irregular print. Perfection.

This is fabric so soft and stretchy, it’s like wearing PJs. Seriously. Yes, even as a fitted dress.

CONSTRUCTION

SKIRT

The skirt has six panels. I was a little nervous about the skirt fitting over my junk trunk (I know, typical girl) so I graded the skirt from the bodice downwards out to a size 10 – better to have more fabric in my seams than none I figured!

I then machine basted the skirt together (with the longest stitch) and tried on the skirt inside out. I found this the easiest way to see where I need to grade the curves in and back out to achieve a good fit.

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My inside-out approach to fitting the Georgia Dress

I basted the new seams (back to size 6 anyway you idiot Lizzy) and when I was happy, I machined the final seams, removed the basting, then used my overlocker/serger to trim/neaten the seams.

I also pegged the skirt in just a little at the hemline for a more streamlined fit.

Bodice

I found the bodice to be an excellent fit. You will notice that I gathered the centre of my bodice. This is simply because my denim was stretchier than I thought and the neckline stretched out a little and was gaping along the edge. I considered unpicking the entire bodice and then remembered how the gathering stitches had changed the fit of my Hot Mess Birthday Dress bodice. The denim was a little heavy for gathering stitches so I did three small pleats instead. Seems to have worked – although probably increased the va-va-voom of the dress which always freaks me out a little.

If you are using a fabric with some stretch. I would advise stay-stitching or lightly interfacing your bodice shell fabric or at least the seam line to avoid the neckline stretching.

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Georgia: the bodice lining, quilting cotton & boning.

I also stitched lightweight polyester boning to the seam allowances of the lining. I just use the Rigiflex (?) boning which you can machine stitch through, it’s quite flexible and very easy to apply. It doesn’t make the dress uncomfortable, I actually think it makes dresses with a structured bodice easier to wear as they just sit and don’t lose their structure with wear.

I understitched the lining. The instructions don’t tell you to do this but it improves the finish of the dress.

Zipper

This dress has an invisible zipper. Georgia’s zipper insertion is per ‘normal’ and then the instructions have you handstitch the lining to the zipper and along the bodice lower edge.

I machined the lining to the zipper using the Sewaholic Cambie method of attaching a lining to a zipper. It’s neater and quicker. Just sayin’.

It’s easy to do – once you have sewn in the zipper, just turn the lining back so the right sides of the bodice shell and lining are facing. Line the lower seam allowance of the lining back (in line with the bodice seam. Pin along the zip. Then using your normal zipper foot sew down alongside the zipper teeth (on the side closest to the seam edge). Turn the lining back out and you have attached the lining. So simple.

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Attaching the lining to the zipper by machine.

So there you have it – there’s a new girl in town… and I think she’s bringing her friends… stay tuned.

The ELH’s reaction was just ‘Wow’ when I walked down the stairs wearing this. I think that’s good, yes?

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Later in the evening, a little crumpled… we have had a lot of rain this week but the sun came out on Sunday afternoon – I think Georgia wanted to meet you…

OTHER SEWBUSYLIZZY NEWS…

Madly stitching the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat.

Ordering some fabric for my Lolita Patterns Gunmetal top – and there will be a pattern giveaway when I blog it. I have this idea in my head for this top/dress – and although I’ve tried to make do with what’s available in town, I just can’t – stretch fabric is harder to find than you might think in my town. Online ordering it must be! I should have blogged this on its launch – but I’ve had all kinds of challenges and things going on in my life… sometimes you just can’t do everything… boo.

Pattern: Georgia Dress, By Hand London. Sent to me by the By Hand London girls (mwah – love you as always. And yes I stalked the postman ’til it arrived - I’m not ashamed LOL).  Available in Australia at:-

• Stitch56
• Sew Squirrel

Fabric: Cotton stretch denim from Spotlight, Australia.

Also See: The amazing version by Roisin of Dolly Clackett | Sally Bee makes gorgeous blocked plaid Georgia

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I’m blessed to live in the town of ‘getaway’. We have a multitude of beaches, waterways and hinterland to frolick about in on a daily basis. As result unless I’m at work, I dress like I’m on holidays… casual dressing is my forte.

After my happy experience with Liesl & Co Late Lunch Tunic (aka the beach cover-up) I wanted to sew another Liesl & Co… so I decided that the Weekend Getaway Blouse & Dress pattern was just the ticket.

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Getaway Blouse

Let me tell you THIS IS THE EASIEST TOP EVER to construct. You can read about my thoughts on the pattern at Stitch 56 and you can get the downloadable PDF here… and in the meantime here are some ‘frolicking in the sun’ pictures in my Getaway (at home) Blouse! And it’s more ‘mad Hawaiian’ in spirit

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Lovely easy shirt to wear… especially in silk cotton…

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Liesl & Co Getaway Blouse – back view

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That’s me gloating about having a collar and sleeves with zero effort.

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Dog bombed again! Yes, he doesn’t enjoy his mornings at the beach much…

and finally…. I do appear to live in paradise… yes they are dolphins swimming by as I stroll along the beach with the mad whippet Banjo… life is tough…

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Dolphins!

Don’t you think a sewing weekend away in Port Macquarie is just the ticket? Think of the blog shots!

Pattern: Liesl & Co Weekend Getaway Blouse & Dress

Fabric: Silk cotton from Spotlight.

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I’ve always wanted to make something for my kids for Christmas and this year, despite being busier than ever – I managed it!

I chose Burda 9489.

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I really love the Burda catalogue for kids. Their designs are modern and not too cutsie. Once your kids get to a certain age they are really not interested in wearing frilly, flouncy princess-style dresses.

Not much to tell you about this skirt. I made View B. It’s got curved hip yoke pockets with contrasting fabric trim. The skirt is gathered onto a waistband with a back zipper closure. The waistband has belt loops.

I made a size 7 with added length for Zoe. Zoe is 10 but tall and very lean for her age – just like her dad. Zoe’s is the owl skirt. It’s a quilting weight cotton, trimmed with red polka dot poplin. She was VERY cranky the afternoon we took photos so I don’t have too many of just Zoe – she’s a gorgeous tween when she’s not scowling LOL. I fear she is going to be a heartbreaker…

Giselle is my youngest daughter, she’s 8. I cut her a straight size 10. I added some lace trim out of the stash to her hem and got a piece of grosgrain ribbon for her belt – she has been dying to star on ‘Mummy’s blog’ for ages! We took some photos late one evening in town under the big Christmas tree. The light was not great but they do capture her personality beautifully, she’s a funny little soul with an old-fashioned air about her. So here she is… my little Giselle Violet…

They have had lots of compliments and I’m so pleased to managed to squash these into my sewing schedule.

Celebrate your Christmas with the joy of a child…

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Giselle – my crazy little munchkin

Pattern: Burda 9489, view B
Fabric: Christmas prints from Spotlight

I’ll be back on Monday with my Minerva make!

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Top 5 of 2013

TOP 5 MISSES OF 2013

I’ve decided to start with my Top 5 Misses. Rationale? Well after this post… the only way is up and I like to think positive!

I’ve struggled to find much in my last 12 months of making that I would regard as a ‘miss’ (despite the nasty drunk monkey’s best efforts).

I’m taking a slightly different approach… bear with me & ignore the drunk monkey shrieking … I fear the festive season and its indulgences is making him worse than usual.

I’m also not going to do five… I think three is enough…

GIVING MYSELF A BREAK
I’m notoriously tough on myself – great at encouraging and inspiring confidence in others but specialise in giving myself a hard time. I’m so glad I started my blog, all the blog comments, twitter people and stitchers I have met IRL, have all helped me develop a more balanced view of myself. It sounds like such a simple thing but it never is.

TOO LITTLE REST TIME
I do like to be busy but this year has been OTT. Between travelling, work, family, blogging, helping out at the school and other things along the way, I have been really bad at taking some time out for myself – and by that I mean doing NOTHING. I desperately need a rest for a few weeks. I am T.I.R.E.D.

OVER-COMMITTING
This goes hand-in-hand with the above. I am great with deadlines, in fact I love them. Juggling multiple demands, schedules and more is OK. However this year I have had just too many and ended up pushed and pulled between them all. There are so many people I need to get back to, things to sew and stuff to write I feel dizzy – and that’s just the blog!

A perfect example of this is agreeing the make the recently released Lolita Patterns Gunmetal. First the print shop stuffed up the print, I failed to notice, I made a top – misshapen due to bad print job. I printed it again… and this time was too tired to remember that I had to sew 3/8in seam allowances instead of the usual 5/8in seam allowances (entirely my fault) so ended up with another too-tight top (there are about eight seams in the bodice so that’s a total of 2 inches smaller than it should have been…). I’m totally gutted as it was looking so lovely and completely different to the other Gunmetals. What an idiot Lizzy…. fortunately it’s going to fit Miss 10.

It was just an unfortunate collision of deadlines, I was in the midst of my busiest time at work, sewing Gunmetal, sewing the Thread Theory Goldstream Peacoat test pattern (that’s why I was so quiet for a while – it was a big job), sewing my Minerva Crafts Christmas Skirt, the By Hand London Georgia Dress and more. The Peacoat pattern was a little late coming to me, so everything collided – just swamped me and things fell apart a little. Sorry everyone! I’m getting back on my feet – just a little more sleep required.

CONCLUSION
I’m stopping at Three Misses for 2013. I could go on and on… because I’m great at giving myself a hard time, doing too much… and what I really need to do is eat dinner and have a good sleep…

IN THE MEANTIME… some koala lovin’ (or not)
ELH spotted two koalas in the tree across from our house. Koalas are quite common around our home, it’s less common to spot two up a tree together unless it’s Mum & a Bubba. Unless it’s mating season… which it is…
Excuse the poor quality photos - they were very high up in the branches and the sun was going down…

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Koala slumber party… that’s Bruce (the big male down low, showing us his best side) and Shazza (the alluring demure female curled up in the higher branches)

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As the sun goes down…
BRUCE: Hi, the name’s Bruce… like to share a juicy gum tip or two?

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BRUCE: Alright, not into gum tips? Howsabout a kiss love?

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SHAZZA: Not on your sweet Nellie – go try your luck with some other sheila…
I said NO *thump* – rack off! Go shave your back or something… you can’t even call yourself a bear. Poser! *thump*

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BRUCE: Yeah, she doesn’t know what she’s missing out on… *hastily retreats down the tree*
Needless to say Bruce didn’t lucky this evening… think he’s going to try his luck elsewhere tonight.

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Vogue 1351 – the neckline

When Vogue 1351 was released, I was underwhelmed. The styling, the fit and photography – it does the dress no favours – I look at the models and think EAT A HAMBURGER & STAND UP STRAIGHT! Despite that I kept returning to it, perhaps because I am a cowl junkie (see here, here and here for evidence)…

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Vogue 1351 – I look positively beefy here and I’m a towering 5 foot 4 & weigh in under 50kg.

I’m glad I did. It’s simply lovely. It’s not fancy, it’s not attention seeking… it’s just quietly ‘there’. Simple clean lines…

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Vogue 1351, front view

I know that bias-cut patterns scare some people. However the simplicity of this dress means that the construction is simple, there are minimal seams to stretch out, very few seamlines to match. The skirt skims and flares. The bodice is simple and drapes. The fit is not complex. I love bias.

This triple crepe fabric is quite heavy but falls nicely. I think the weight of the fabric lends itself well to a bias cut as it’s more forgiving over any lumps or bumps than a clingier knit fabric.

Kathryn and Laura have also made this crepe up and both commented about how it frays. As all my pieces, except the back piece, were cut on the bias, fraying was not an issue for me.

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Vogue 1351, back view. The skirt on this dress is simply lovely.

Here is the good news…

• Lining: 5 pieces & Shell: 5 pieces.
• Zip: invisible
• Just two darts in the front bodice lining. There are no tucks, no pleats.

The dress is beautifully lined. The cowl attaches to the lining and the inside of the dress is fabulous.

You could just line the bodice if you are not a lining fan.

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Vogue 1351 – interior

I adore the colour of this fabric – it’s not too purple if that makes sense. And there have been two recent Minerva makes from exactly the same shade of triple crepe - there is something about the aubergine (Kathryn’s New Look dress * Laura’s Lisette Dress)… I almost made this in ‘jade’ which I think would be gorgeous… and black would be absolutely perfection as a LBD…. note to self: make this in black…

Lining a sleeveless dress is a little bit fiddly. I needed to concentrate (ie not tweet) when attaching the cowl to the lining and bodice – and joining the shoulders.

I lined this dress with a heavier than usual ‘Italian anti static’ polyester/viscose lining. It was lovely to work with – and much easier to cut out and handle than bemsilk for a change.

Things I did differently..

• The patterns asks you to sew above and below where you insert the zip. It’s an invisible zip and I could see no good reason to make the zip insertion more difficult. I inserted it as per a usual invisible zip insertion and sewed the seam above and below the zip afterwards.
• I also found sewing the lining to the dress waistline very tricky after sewing the lining to the zipper tape. I would sew the lining to the waistband first next time… I think!

This dress construction is not rocket science. It’s simple yet lovely. It doesn’t need a billion pleats, pockets or design features. It just is what it is and it works.

Things I would do differently…

I should have interfaced the seam where the zip is inserted. It does ripple slightly. Not enough to be a bother but I do notice it.

The pattern features a narrow rolled hem. My last Minerva project I showed how to do this – this time I used a rolled hem foot as I got one for my birthday in November (tricky getting around the side seams though!). At first I didn’t like the rolled hem. I thought the crepe was too heavy for it… but looking at the photos I love the subtle fluting it creates so I think I will leave it. The other way to finish this hem would be creating a facing as Sam, another Minerva Blogger, did with her pink crepe skirt.

Pattern: Vogue 1351, made as a size 6, no alterations.
Fabric: Triple Crepe in Aubergine from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available from Minerva Crafts.

Also see (fabric): Laura | Kathryn
Also see (pattern): Little Betty | Sunny Gal Studio | Very Purple Person

I’m lucky enough to be able to stop at the beach after work and stroll across the sand like this… I know, life is tough…

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Vogue by the seashore

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Top 5 of 2013

This is a tricky one… am I cheating if I have categories and post multiple makes?
I’ve hyperlinked all the images to the original posts – in case you want more pictures or details…
I’ve also created a Made-by-Me 2013 page where you can see all my makes…

BY HAND LONDON
I love all of these makes. The latest girl in the BHL Club has surfaced many many times this party season – with both heels and bare feet… Georgia is a go-anywhere girl… and seriously comfortable. I asked my husband if it was appropriate for an informal event… and he said “oh well I’ll just have to put up with having the hottest wife in the room again…” LOL I think that’s a good sign.

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The new kid in town – Georgia from By Hand London

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Elisalotte dress – a combination of the Charlotte Skirt and the Elisazlex bodice

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The Sari Edition – By Hand London Victoria Blazer

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Charlotte The Second: By Hand London

and my lovely Anna dresses… I love all these…

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Anna Rose By Hand London – a girly girly dress

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Anna Blue by the seaside. By Hand London

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Jungle Anna – there’s that wild thigh slit… I finished it a little higher than Anna Roses… cos Jungle Anna is a wild girl…

MEGAN NIELSEN
Love both of these makes and wear them a lot!

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Tania Culottes and the odd giraffe

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Love this skirt! Megan Neilsen’s Cascade Skirt. Perfect perfect perfect fabric for this make.

GRAINLINE
It’s a recent love affair but I love the modern simplicity of Jen’s designs.

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now I’m wondering if there is some halo graffiti around town somewhere….

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Grainline Maritime Shorts in floral denim

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Grainline Studio – Archer
It was extremely windy – so this looks more fitted than it is!

KNITTING
I re-taught myself to knit. All I can say is YouTube is a wonder! Of all my makes I adore Idlewood the most. Long, warm, casual AND it has a monster cowl.

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Idlewood – taken after 36 hours of travel. I knitted the last four rows just after I landed!

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Now THAT’S what I call a cowl!

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Sewaholic Cambie and Whole Wheat cardigan

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Sewaholic Cambie & Andi Satterlund’s Marion

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Chuck by Andi Satterlund – front view

MARIA DENMARK & VOGUE MASH-UP
I adore this pattern mash-up. I wear the blue dress a lot on the weekends.
And Clairy – she’s my kinda gal… I’ve worn her to Frocktails and to a work function.
In both versions I feel fabulous and I get loads of compliments.
My original Maria Denmark day-to-night top is also heavily worn.
Buy this pattern!

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Maria Denmark day-to-night dress – take 2

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Clairy Dress – pouting lips, shaking hips…

HONORABLE MENTIONS

I’ve made lots of things I really like this year! I know – fatheaded of me but it’s true… so the honourable mentions go to…

Hot Mess Birthday Dress

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Hot Mess Birthday Dress – I’ve worn this quite a lot. it’s easy to wear and the b/w scheme make it as classic – despite the craziness!

Liesl + Co Late Lunch Tunic aka my beach shirt…

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The Beach edition of the Late Lunch Tunic (and my Michael Jackson moment)

McCalls 6611 Fashion Star Jacket

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McCalls 6611 – Fashion Star

Sewaholic Lonsdale

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Sewaholic Lonsdale – the front view

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Top 5 of 2013

I had five things written down. All very sensible & fluent. However this morning I read this post by Rochelle of Lucky Lucille.

It got me thinking.

Of all my reflections about life, sewing, blogging I simply have this to share…

Don’t undervalue what you are.
Don’t overvalue what you are not.
(Malcolm Forbes)

Celebrate who you are. The hits & misses, positives & negatives… we need both to find balance. Maybe it’s not that someone is better or worse… it’s simply that they are different.

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Top 5 of 2013

My writing at the moment is a little brief. I managed to throw my spine out of alignment (merely by stretching after my morning coffee!) on New Year’s Eve.

Don’t fret I’m much better, still stiff and sore but on the road to recovery.

Top Inspirations…

I’ve changed a lot in the past year of sewing.

I’m sewing more to the beat of my own drum. I know what I like, what suits me and my lifestyle. More and more I just sew ideas that pop into my head. I am forever browsing the internet, watching people in the street, examining garments in-store, I love clothes in ‘action’.

I guess my top Inspirations would be.. (sorry just four today – I clearly can’t count this year)

Sewing blogs & twitter
Without a doubt seeing what everyone is creating and how they are doing it is a Number 1 inspiration. Keep sewing & blogging people!
I’ve recently discovered Beaute J-adore and Jolies Bobines. Fabulous sites with great makes, photography and styling – check them out.
I love twitter – love it. I get lots of ideas, inspirations and solutions from my twitter friends – thank you – love you all!

Patterns
I love new pattern releases – whether it’s the Big 4 or indies. I find all new patterns thought-provoking and inspiring. These days I like to look beyond the styling and create my own version. Recent examples of this are my Late Lunch Tunic (which has been worn a lot!) and my Vogue 1351 for Minerva Fabrics. I’m currently working on my Lolita Patterns Gunmetal and it’s really sweet and very different in feel to the other Gunmetals floating around out there!

Fabric
I’m very driven by my fabric choices. My husband said to me one day - “it’s a peculiar gift – you walk past a bolt of fabric, pat it and say… ‘wow that would make a perfect halterneck dress/shirt/trousers/jacket etc’… I just see a bolt of fabric – you see what it could become.”
This is probably why I struggle with sewalongs. I can’t make something unless I can find the right fabric for a pattern. I’m a little obsessive on that score.
So fabric stores and online shops I can spend hours in, dreaming about my next make…

‘Not’ shopping
I love to wander around shops and browse online. I very rarely buy these days – instead I’m forever snapping images on my iPhone and filing away ideas for another sewing day.
I’m very driven by my lifestyle. Fortunately I have a need for casual wear, corporate wear and cocktail dresses in my life so I have diverse sewing projects to tackle. I like to make things I will actually wear. It’s fun to sew things for the sheer challenge – it’s more fun to sew things that you wear frequently!

Still got my 2014 Goals to go – I’ve been thinking hard about this one!

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I was meant to blog this weeks ago, it’s been a long journey but with a happy ending…

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Lolita Gunmetal – sweet but a little bit sassy

Yes that look on my face says it all – it’s been an epic journey. This is my Lolita Gunmetal.

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I was mention to blog this when the pattern was released… which was errrrrr some time ago… oops…

I’ve had a range of challenges, apart from it arriving in my inbox at my busiest time of the year (suck it up princess Lizzy)…

THE BLOOPERS

Officeworks printed my pattern and RESIZED it to fit – despite my very clear instructions not to do so. Unfortunately my store requires you to leave the file and come back to pick it up. as it turns out – even if you are there they still get it wrong. You can’t upload and order via their site as it resizes to fit. So you have to go in and then go back for the job, it’s a 24-48 hour turnaround. Painful. Unfortunately I was in a rush (too much family/work stuff going on & me not thinking clearly) and whipped up a test run. It was a bizarre shape and then I realised why…

I returned to Officeworks to explain what had happened. They didn’t offer to replace the job, I am so over the store I didn’t actually care. They offered to print it on the spot. I explained how to print it, I stood there and she printed the first page. She went to print the second page and said “Oh I better resize that onto the page“. “No,” I said, “Never resize my printing, they are patterns and useless to me printed as a resized file“. She printed the second page… and yes she had printed the first page incorrectly – but didn’t tell me that! No, I discovered it when I got home. I was really angry because she must have know the first page was incorrect and didn’t rectify her error.
Did I go back? No. I did send an email to Officeworks head office. Whatever, there is a Xerox shop across the road, I email a file to him and he calls me when it’s ready. Yes, he doesn’t resize to fit if I request. I know. Radical customer service.

Thirdly, and this is the corker, I finally ordered this sweet cotton viscose ‘Ring Around Roses’ fabric from Tessuti… and then sewed it up with a 5/8in seam allowance instead of a 3/8in seam allowance. Needless to say it with all those princess seams it didn’t fit… well not in a flattering way!

So I reordered the fabric - and some silk modal jersey to line it with and finally we have this sweet little top!

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Lolita Gunmetal – frill details

THE FABRIC

I was challenged to source fabric for this project, it’s actually hard to get decent stretch fabric where I live. It’s either a solid colour or polyester (note I do not wear polyester, not even RTW designer polyester, I prefer my skin to breathe, I know, old fashioned of me) - I initially planned to make a sexy gothic version. The pattern lends itself to it… however I hesitated as it’s really SewNotLizzy.

I’m loathe to just dismiss something “Oh that’s not my style“. The interesting thing to investigate is how to own the look rather than slavishly recreating someone else’s style. I really liked the idea of stripes but often find stripes harsh to wear – when I stumbled across the floral stripe fabric on Tessuti website I could just see it working beautifully. A sweet ‘country girl’ top. Yes, it’s a little like Grandma’s bathroom wallpaper but only if you let it be. I don’t think Gunmetal is for wallflowers…

My version is a little different to the pattern. The pattern using a sheer, lace or mesh overlay on the ruched panels, the mesh is attached to the fashion fabric and the top is also lined – with the fashion fabric or a contrast if you wish. I simply used the stripe fabric and a silk blend jersey as a lining. I do not put buttons or D-rings/lacing on the centre panel as I felt the floral pattern was sufficient.

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Lolita Gunmetal – wish I’d lined the peplum too – oh well must wear higher waisted jeans next time…. still favouring one side – one more visit to go to get ‘straightened out’

THE VICTORY

I’m not much of a frill girl and I was even more scared about ‘making’ frills from the fabric itself – I hate raw edges on my clothing so that wasn’t an answer for me. I did buy some lace trim but in the end I wanted those floral stripes as the frill so I just had to figure out how to do something with my overlocker other than neaten seams or sew stretch.

Hands up if that’s all you use your overlocker for? Me too… until this top. I took a deep breath got out my manual and figured it out… and it’s embarrassingly easy.

I have a Brother 3034D overlocker. You simply…

1. Turn off your machine.
2. Lift the foot.
3. Turn the wheel until the needles are in the highest position and the loopers are extended (note I had to read my manual to figure out what was what – I know hilarious, I could thread it and neaten seams – and that was all I cared about until now!).
4. You unthread and remove the left (outermost) needle.
5. Open the front and remove this part (you might need to give it a little tug – sorry the kids are in bed and I don’t want to dive into the sewing room to find my manual to find out its name - I’ll update the post in the morning!)
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   Just pull it out sideways…

6. You need to adjust your stitch width and length (the dials have R on them for this purpose – go figure) and away you go.
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   Adjust this one…

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   adjust this one…

This takes no time once you get the hang of it. I was quickly changing the machine between the two sewing methods by the end of the project and will be using it a lot more! I also hemmed my sleeves and peplum with this rolled hem method. Love it. It’s dainty for those finer fabrics and adds some body to the hem.

If changing the overlocker dials freaks you out – take a photo before you move them and use it for reference when you switch back. Worse case – read the manual – it’s actually helpful! I discovered stuff about differential feed and whatnot for sewing different fabrics – go figure. And that little piece you just pulled out? It slides back into position easily enough – it’s clearly meant to come out as there is a storage space for it inside the door of the overlocker…

MY CONSTRUCTION TIPS

My main piece of advice is to take this project slowly. Don’t rush as there are fiddly bits but your patience will be rewarded. I found it easier to work on the ironing board or a flat surface, especially with the ruched pieces.

After all my disasters I was so keen to get this version right… so I pinned, machine basted and then overlocked my seams. Yes it takes longer but it provided opportunities to adjust the gathers and seams. It was worth it.

Go a size up – I didn’t and it’s a very neat fit. My fabrics have a bit of give in them and the lining is very fine so it’s quite wearable but less stretchy fabrics might be challenging.

I was naughty and went against the grain for the centre front panel – I like the visual effect…

I’m glad I made it and have the pattern. It’s a flattering top, the comfort of knit with the benefit of princess seams and feminine details. Yes it’s a challenge but the reward can be great!

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Gunmetal – back view

WIN A GUNMETAL PATTERN

Simply comment below and let me know you would like to go in the draw. I’ll announce the winner on Friday 10 January – heck I’ll even throw in the d-rings Amity sent me that I haven’t used. I know, I spoil you.

Yes this is a PAPER VERSION. You don’t need to worry about your home printer or Officeworks.

The Gunmetal Sewalong starts this week – so while you might not get it in time – you will have a great reference to make your own version.

Please leave an email – otherwise I can’t get in contact with you.

Pattern: Lolita Patterns Gunmetal (also has a dress version)
Fabric: Ring Around Roses & Snow Jersey from Tessuti

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I’ve had a rather bumpy start to the year – I managed to put my ‘back outta whack’ on New Years Eve… not doing anything interesting I’m sorry to report. I was actually typing a blog post at 7am, drinking a coffee, had a stretch… and crack. Ouch.

Anyways, after quite a bit of pain, afternoon sleeps, lots of physio visits and anti-inflammatories, I am on the mend and almost back to ‘normal’.

So I tackled some smaller projects while I was recovering. HATS!

When I started doing some posts for Stitch 56, one of the things that interested me was doing some more sewing for my daughters. They do appreciate it enormously… so I started at the top – literally with their noggins… and chose Kids Hats by Melbourne based designer Nicole Mallalieu of You Sew Girl to road test.

I was a little nervous – as I always am when I am attempting to sew something completely new and unfamiliar. I didn’t need to be. This pattern makes hatmaking a breeze. No sooner than you finish one, than you want to make another!

The pattern has three hat sizes for head sizes ranging from 48cm through to 57cm. The pattern pieces are not nested which meant I could just cut out each size and then trace them with the markings onto my fabric. I’ve been making so many hats I think I will trace these onto template plastic for a more durable pattern.

The pattern contains detailed instructions, photographs and variations. There is lots of learn about how interfacing behaves, what role bias plays and more. I found it an interesting project!

However the best thing? These were just fabulous fun to make! It takes me about three hours to make a hat now – I prefer to hand stitch my brim trim and crown lining into place so it takes longer than it might for others.

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Hats for all! Even the crazy children!

My children are aged 8 and 10 and I made the large for both of them.

I made the first hat from denim from the op shop. The lining and trim was made from a retro floral sheet scrap a friend had given me. I made a fabric flower and we finished it with a crochet-covered button from the ‘random’ button tin. She’s been wearing it ever since!

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The denim edition

My second daughter then required a hat immediately, pronto, ASAP! This one is made from cotton poplin and lined/trimmed with red rayon. Unfortunately she chose a black background fabric so I am making her another in a lighter shade – better for the really sunny days! However this is still as cute as a button – or rather a strawberry!

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And one for the crazy kid…

Finally I have made a third for my daughter’s friend who looked most envious as I made Zoe’s. It’s posted over at Stitch 56 – check it out.

I highly recommend this project as a crowd pleaser AND stash scrap buster. It’s a winner!

There will be many many more hats in my sewing future!

Finally, just a few little tips that I picked up as I made the hats…

1. Sewing the Curves

I found sewing the curves was very easy if I curled the fabric up and away from the front of the presser foot as I sewed.

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Holding the fabric upwards from the presser foot as I sewed around the curves.

2. Think about your pinning

Position your pins so they are easy to remove as you sew (see above) and they don’t scratch you as you sew!

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I pinned the top to the crown with the pins facing inwards – a lot less ouchies when sewing.

3. Achieving even brim stitching

All my hats have top-stitched brims, I think it makes for a more sturdy hat. The lines are evenly spaced at 2cm intervals. The easiest way to achieve this is to use a seam gauge and place a post-it note on the arm of your machine. Then watch the edge of your hat against the post-it note (rather than the presser foot). Perfect every time!
I also increased my stitch length slightly.

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Careful measuring and sewing resulted in perfect top stitching every time!

There are lots more tips in the pattern – and I can’t stay here and type as I have hats to make… and if you are interested in adding hats to your sewing stash, check out Nicole’s You Sew Girl blog which contains lots of interesting information. You can obtain this pattern from Stitch 56… where there are also a bunch of gorgeous purse patterns… hmmmm tempting….

I’ve just purchased the Fedora Pattern by You Sew Girl… I think I’m addicted! This one is for ME though!

Pattern: Kids Hats by You Sew Girl, provided to me by Stitch 56
Fabric: denim, popin, rayon, scraps and more from my fabric pile!

AND THE WINNER OF THE LOLITA PATTERNS GUNMETAL GIVEWAY

by random number generator is….

RAVENNA

who hasn’t left her email address, so please send me an email Ravenna at sewbusylizzy (at) gmail (dot) com and I will organise the send the pattern out to you. If I don’t hear from Ravenna by Wednesday 15 January I will have a re-draw.

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Lolita Gunmetal – the sweet version

Thank you everyone for your kind comments and interest in winning the pattern.

If you didn’t win but still want your own version on Gunmetal – you can buy the pattern as a PDF, paper pattern – and even the D-rings at Lolita Patterns.

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It’s been HOT and I needed more shorts in my life…

Hello Sweet Shorts from Pattern Runway…

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Sweet Shorts by Pattern Runway

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Sweet Shorts by Pattern Runway – oops sorry – shoulda fixed my naughty front pocket – too much twirling!

I adore this fabric. It’s a cotton/poly blend from Spotlight. I love its lacy embroidered look – and the fact it doesn’t crush like crazy with wear!! I usually would not touch poly-anything with a ten-foot pole but this fabric was too lovely… it whispered ‘Sweet Shorts’ to me as I walked past…

I was tempted to use the reverse as a contrast on the side pockets… but I wanted a simple pair of white lacy-look shorts so steered clear of the contrast, I felt it would ruin the lovely silhouette of this design & distract from its features.

Hello back single welt pockets…

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Sweet Shorts – back pocket, single welt. So, so, so close to perfect!

Hello side slash pockets…

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Sweet Shorts – side pocket

Hello single scallop front…

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My favourite feature. The front scallop and a high waist is a cute leg lengthener. My pattern matching on the centre seam is not too shabby either.

Sewing Shorts the SewBusyWay

I’m not a muslin maker – unless I have concerns about ease & fit… and shorts always fall into the category for me. I don’t have a lot of meat on me but I have a small waist and a set of hips. I don’t mind my hips… they make my waist look small (looking for the positives people!) – and gave me two huge gorgeous healthy babies.

I did make a muslin of these in size S. I found them to be on the larger side of the scale and sized down to XS. I did try taking in the side seams but then found it was hard to get my hand into the side pocket openings… which sort of defeats the purpose of side pockets… the back also gaped enormously… rather like my Maritime Shorts did at first…

To deal with the back gape, I changed the construction of these shorts.

I split the back waistband in half – adding seam allowances to the centre.

I sew the left-hand side of the shorts and the short inner leg seam. I then attached the waistband in two pieces. Inserted the invisible zip and finished the right-hand side.

I then sewed the crotch seam. I sewed from the front to the back until a few inches below the welt pocket. I then basted the rest of the back seam and checked the fit – I had to take about an inch out of the back as a graduated seam from below the welts to the top of the waistband. Once I was happy with the fit, I sewed the back seam and neatened the seam. I then transferred this amount to the waistband facing, attached it and finished the shorts in the usual way.

This is how I fitted the Maritime shorts. I could have done a massive swayback paper based alteration, redrafted the waistband and so on. However for me this solution works – yes there is a join in the back waistband (which is how the Maritime shorts and Thurlows are anyway) – however for the sake of a great fit I’d forgo the one piece waistband. I’m not saying it works for everyone but it works like a dream for me.

I love the hems. They are faced and give the shorts a lovely finish – and much easier than normal hems!

I did find the instructions for attaching the welt pocket linings confusing… so I just tossed the instructions aside and figured it out for myself. I often find this is the best way to deal with something baffling when sewing. Just puzzle it out using logic, pins and other garments as a reference.

I have a very simple trick when I attach waistband facing. I run a line of basting stitches along the edge of the waistband – so I know exactly where I need to turn the fabric over when I turn the facing to the inside, turn the seam allowance under (using the basting as a guide) and slip stitch the facing to the inside of the shorts. Then I remove the basting. This simple step improves the finish by a country mile – and hastens the ironing and slip stitching process – no guessing by eye or using a tape to check the turn.

Conclusion?

These shorts are not a simple or quick make, there are welt pockets, side slash pockets, faced hems and more. However they are not that hard either. You do need to take your time, possibly make a muslin to determine fit and be patient to achieve a nice finish. They are well drafted and go together beautifully.

I love the flat front, the front seams, the scalloped hem, the back welt pockets, the high waist… fabulous pattern!

I really enjoyed making these. I’ve decided I need a pair in denim…

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Windy day!

Sew Neurotic Lizzy

I’ve always shied away for posting too many construction pictures. I’m notoriously hard on myself. That mentality of ‘coulda & shoulda’ done better. I’m tough on myself and always kept my methods & garment ‘innards’ to myself. So brace yourself. This is it.

Note: These shorts are damp and could have been better pressed for these shots… these were immaculate… until a small incident with a small child and red nail polish – I then spilt some nail polish remover on the pocket lining… boo… but you can’t see it from the outside of the shorts – whew. The lining was just bemsilk from the stash.

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Sweet Shorts – inside back

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Sweet Shorts – inside front

You know… I’ve come to the realisation I’m ok. I can sew. I can sew pretty well. I might not be technically trained. I tend to sew via inspiration & intuition. My fit techniques are not the paper-based ones. I think via my hands – I wave my arms when I talk and I think I sew the same way.

I do take my time with construction, I love a complicated pattern. I love to sew it neatly, I take my time to improve and learn new techniques – and sew like a possessed woman of course. However when I get stuck or something freaks me out – I don’t plough on these days. I put it aside. I try it on. I readjust. Try a different placement. I find a solution. I feel hellishly proud of my work by the end and often fall in love with my makes.

I like to take nice photos. I get a vision in my head of an outfit and that’s what inspires me to sew.

Blogging was also made me realise just how beautiful my home town is – so I indulge myself and my readers wallowing in drifts of snow in a different hemisphere! My clothes are a reflection of my lifestyle, climate and personality – this is who I am.

I’ve decided that a passion for sewing, nice pictures, style/fashion obsession, good construction and a generally happy & positive outlook on life despite any challenge that comes my way doesn’t make me a lame sewist… just a different one. Not better or worse, just me. I’m OK with that.

Pattern: Sweet Shorts Pattern Runway
Fabric: Cotton/poly blend from Spotlight, $19.95 a metre, I used 90cm.

Also see: Poppykettle | Dixie DIY | Cirque Du Babe

Oh and we spotted several of these guys on the way home from taking the above photos…

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Cute Aussie critters

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This was going to be a classy DVF-inspired wrap dress…

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The wrap dress that wasn’t – Vogue 1337

Then I woke up the morning I was planning to sew… and decided that the wrap dress had somehow morphed into a batwing mini dress.

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Vogue 1337

I’d love to explain my creative process to reach this point – however it was one of my more random, arm-waving last moment decisions… I just suddenly didn’t want a wrap dress… and I needed a retro batwing mini in my life.

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Vogue 1337

Thankfully Vicki at Minerva Crafts was more than accommodating at the last minute!   This pattern screams 80s to me… massive shoulders, batwings, slender skirt… you know – some times clothing should just be fun… too many people take their threads far too seriously! This is fun - fun to make & fun to wear.

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Vogue 1337

I think for my first venture into the world of batwings and 80s power dressing, the option of making this in black made moving outside my comfort zone easier. I know lots of bloggers become enamoured of sewing knits – some even appear to be addicted and sew little else. I’m not one of those girls, I’m still grappling with the techniques required for a good finish…

There is a great big long post over at Minerva with more pictures – and information about how I attached the elastic to the sleeves and waistline… go forth and read…

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My elastic attachment.

No I didn’t make the self fabric belt… and I changed the neckline to have a narrow binding rather than a facing because the pattern facing is the work of the devil… all the details are over at Minerva Image may be NSFW.
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Pattern: Vogue 1337
Fabric: Black knit from Minerva Crafts.
Kit: available here.

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For Christmas I received Drape Drape from my very thoughtful parent-in-laws (thank you!). I liked it so much I immediately jumped online and purchased Drape Drape 2 and Drape Drape 3… so you can expect some drape bingeing in 2014…

First up is a very simple draped singlet-style dress – or the ‘one piece side drape top’… it’s photographed as a dress in the book and I’m not much of a tunic wearer so it’s a dress for me too! Helen of FunkBunny in Melbourne discovered Drape Drape around the same time… and has made a nearly identical dress! We discussed on twitter how long this dress should be – I think perhaps longer, I’m wondering whether as the hemline rises, the hips look bigger… or is more legs a bonus?

I’m throwing a bunch of images at you so you can see the dress from different angles and in motion… one of the things I enjoy most are bloggers who include lots of images and angles… particularly of the clothes ‘in motion’ after all that’s the reality of wearing them – I like to see how they ‘behave’. Some things look fabulous when you stand still and then hideous with movement. This garment does change with movement, sliding across curves and hanging loose, it’s interesting…

I can’t quite decide what I think about this look on me… I do think that it will be worn a lot in summer, it’s too easy, loose and cool not to wear… but does it suit me? I’m sure you will advise accordingly – please feel free to be honest – I’m interested in your opinion.

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walking…

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walking…

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more walking…

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Showing off the chevron side seam…

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more showing off…

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side/back chevron side – the knit has a sheen and you can see this where the chevrons meet and the colour of the fabric appears to change.

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the ‘drape’ bit

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side/back drape side

Scared of Drape Drape?
Don’t be. If you can sew knits you can conquer these books. Once you wrap your head around the different style of construction, the unusual pieces and trace off the patterns, the projects are mind-bendingly fun.

The finished garment shapes are achieved from either draping (as in this project), gathering, pleating – and a combination of all in some cases. It’s a great exploration in different pattern shapes and fabric behaviour – I’m fascinated I confess.

The sizing is small as it’s Japanese – I’ve cut this as the small/medium size.

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Pattern piece

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This is the completed dress flat.

The neckline is supposed to be finished with a bias binding style finish. I tried this and it was just impossible with this fabric weight – it’s just far too flimsy. So I unpicked the neckline… which was overlocked. Yes it took forever. I finished the neckline and armholes with bindings ala Sewaholic Renfrew style.

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Neckline – I know my thread is the wrong colour but I still only have red, white & black thread for my overlocker. I know…

Fabric: lightweight ‘crushed’ rayon striped knit from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW (amazing little shop).
Pattern: Pattern No 2 from Drape Drape 2

Note: I’ve got heels on because I had a quick ‘car change’ as we took photos of another Drape Drape project before this!

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Thank you so much! I found all your comments on my last post so encouraging, interesting and a big confidence boost! Mwah.

So without further ado, here’s my second Drape Drape project…

Pattern No. 4: One Piece Scoop Neck Asymmetric Top

I’m completely sure about this one… this could be my favourite t-shirt ever. Slouchy, sexy, loose, scoop neck - and hello sleeves without setting in a sleeve – yes it’s pure magic!

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back view

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I’m doing you a favour and editing me out!

I think this is a superb slouchy sexy t-shirt. I love the quirky sleeve hem on the slouchy side. I love how it drapes and wraps around my body. It’s just perfect. I could make a million of these.

Construction thoughts

I’ve made the small/medium size.

Again, easy as pie to construct after I studied the pictures. I actually didn’t refer to the instructions once I started. It’s quite simple and logical once you get going.

This is an incredibly fine black/silver lurex striped knit. It wasn’t fun to sew, it curled and the bands were difficult – it was worth it though! I think the shirt would look quite different again in a heavier knit (or even normal weight!) but I do love the softness of this and how it falls across the body.

I attached the neckline the same as I did for No.2 dress and actually slip stitched the binding over the wrong wide onto the overlocked edge by hand. The machine was determined to eat the neckline and I was determined it wasn’t going to happen – as unpicking this would have been impossible. The overlock seam for the doubled over binding strip provided some stability and firmness that was lacking with any other neckline finish.

The knit is so fine I’ve chosen to wear a strappy tank under it – if you follow me on Instagram you will know why! LOL.

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Before sewing…

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Finished shirt flat. I know looks freaky off but magic on!

And just because I love it so and often wear it in my photos – my favourite bangle…

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it’s made from two old forks! Purchased nine years ago at the National Gallery Shop in Canberra.

Funnily enough Funk Bunny has made one too – so watch her blog for hers!

Pattern: Drape Drape 2: Pattern no. 4
Fabric: fine lurex knit stripe from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW.

Also see: Sew Brunswick | Top Notch | Sew Smitten | Lula Louise |

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Drape Drape 2: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress. I have no idea where these arm muscles keep popping out from – I swear I struggle to open a jar of Vegemite most days.

Yes, it’s another Drape Drape project – if you accuse me of being obsessed, I’m not going to argue.

I’ve become rather fascinated by this particular style of clothing. I suspect it’s because it’s not something that I ever imagined wearing. It’s become a personal style journey. I’m rather fascinated. I think I’m falling in love… for now…

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Not quite sure what to do with myself…

I confess Japanese clothing design always used to leave me a little confused. However right now I’m enjoying the visual contradictions it presents. It’s shapeless yet oddly sexy. It’s casually draped yet strangely highly structured.

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You spend a lot of your time rearranging the cowl in a heavy onshore breeze… fortunately not every stitcher has this weather to deal with. And seriously? This drapes all the way down to my underwear… and I don’t wear granny knickers… just saying…

The different construction and pattern pieces always spellbind me. It’s like a visual cryptic crossword. If you enjoy a puzzle (I certainly do) Drape Drape is for you.

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“Honey does my bum look big in this?” errr yes probably…

While this dress is styled as an extremely revealing piece in the Drape Drape 2 book (picture it with no camisole…) it’s remarkably easy to wear with a camisole. I think a long-sleeved t-shirt and boots could look quite fab in winter… I’ll let you know in a few months…

THE DRESS

My first two Drape Drape 2 projects, the dress & tshirt, were very simple projects. They look complex but in fact the appearance is achieved through unusual pattern pieces and draping.

This was another matter. The construction itself was not difficult – once you figure out how that cowl was attached – that’s the tricky element. The cowl and front skirt is actually all one piece. Part of the cowl is attached to the front facing (which you can’t see), another section of the cowl swoops out to the side seams, attaches to the back neckline and one folded end tucks back into the front of the cowl itself.

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The cowl and front skirt piece

I know the above explanation makes no sense. Sorry. I think if I hadn’t had a dress form to put the dress on during construction I might have given up – once it was on the form and I had partially pinned the cowl in place across the back neckline, seeing it drape across the dress suddenly made sense.

CONSTRUCTION TIPS?

Use a walking foot. Seriously. These things make sewing knits so much easier.

I also added clear elastic to the shoulder seams as there is quite a lot of fabric hanging around that neckline.

LIFE

You know I wasn’t going to use these pictures. The outcome is in no way reflective of ELH’s camera handling abilities. In fact he’s perhaps rather captured me too well.. tired, pensive, reflective… far away… and in all honesty, sad.

I’ve been so very very tired… which explains my sporadic blogging. I’m actually medically tired which isn’t a disaster, it’s good news. When I got the blood tests back earlier today, I was elated – strange reaction but it’s a relief that at some point it ends. Physical exhaustion becomes all consuming – dominating and defining your life, mood and decisions.

Don’t fret on my behalf for goodness sake – I’m quietly content that the mystery exhaustion has been explained. Hallelujah.

Sometimes the beauty of the long bleak cloud of exhaustion is the brilliant sunshine that follows.

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One of those moments…

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Deemed no good by ELH – too clingy… yes because that neckline is soooo modest you need to worry about people looking at your legs.

I usually don’t write such things in this happy little space… however I’m human – we all are…

Pattern: No.6 Three-piece deep cowl neck dress from the book Drape Drape 2
Fabric: grey/black stripe viscose from All About Fabric in Tamworth NSW.

I had intended this for the Sew Sexy Sewalong – I need to take some more photos when I’m feeling more ROARSOME. LOL. I did take some without the camisole… but they are just not quite ‘there’ or perhaps I wasn’t.

If you are in Sydney this weekend for the meet-up – see you there!

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I just love this shot… such a beautiful classic Aussie beach (plus a pretty dress)

Slightly behind schedule – life has a habit of getting in the way at the moment… By Hand London’s latest pattern – Flora.

Like any sane sewing blogger – when asked by the By Hand London gals if I was interested in pattern testing… I said YES, YES, YES… (rather in the vein of ‘When Harry Met Sally’.)

This is actually my ‘muslin’ Flora – made up from a stashed cotton sateen… I wasn’t going to blog her but I know you always want MOAR. So here is the Flora prelude to my final version.

By Hand London girls were rather fabulous and organised Tessuti Fabrics to provide some completely amazing fabric (cotton sateen with a satin finish) for my second version. I will photograph it this afternoon. While it’s the same mock-wrap version… it’s completely different due to the dramatic fabric provided by Tessuti. I’ve called it Flora Nightshade. I’ve also lined the skirt. Flora Nightshade is dead posh Image may be NSFW.
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This pattern comes with two bodice options and two skirt options. There is a modest high-neck bodice and (for the floozies like me) there a lower cut mock-wrap bodice. – The skirt is a massive indulgence in ‘oomph’ - so full-skirted addicts out there… Flora is your gal.

Anyways… here’s my Flora (AM) – as in daytime – version. She’s rather rough as guts on the inside (I pinked the skirt seams – errrr couldn’t be bothered to change my overlocker thread that night) but still very pretty and wearable… I couldn’t decide what pictures to use so prepare for a visual onslaught. Pick your favourite!

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Note to self – holding up the front of a mullet skirt in no way helps the back from not getting wet…

I often think I should crop my pictures more as this is a sewing blog… it’s supposed to be all about the clothes. I just can’t make myself do it – sorry. They are part of my identity, my makes, my lifestyle.

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Mullet hems – they do look so cool when you photograph them….

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back view…

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Back view… I do really love how the back armholes just come in a tiny bit… (also love a good bit of reflection in wet sand)

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side view – mullet hem in all its glory

Pattern notes…

The pattern testing version came with just the high-low (aka mullet hem). Great news – the released pattern has a straight hem as well! In the words of the By Hand London girls… (check out the square neck version – it’s lovely and I’m tempted to make another…)

“Fundamentally feminine and universally flattering with her cinched waist and voluminous pleated straight or dipped hem circle skirt, Flora is the definitive party dress. Choose from two entirely different bodice variations: a classic sleeveless faux-wrap style or the more demure tank bodice, with her high square neckline and simple shoulder straps.”

Back neckline
I found the back neckline gaped slightly – so rather than put in back neck darts I straightened up the centre back seam as it curved out a little at the top. I found this also helped the front sit better. I’m sure there is a million reasons why I should have done darts – but hey, this worked for me.

Wrap bodice
This version does gap a little. I did some research and found a slightly different solution which I will share on Floral Nightshade post.

Fabric Selection
The skirt is a fabric-munching monster – you will need a WIDE fabric, 150cm no less – also remember that the mullet option means you will see the underside of the fabric. I cut the skirt for this muslin on the crosswise grain.

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I did find the bodice gaps a little – I found a cure for that and I’ll write about it in my Tessuti Fabric’s Nightshade Flora post… coming soon…

Also see: Dolly Clackett | Gingermakes | Jolies Bobines | Diary of a Chainstitcher | A Stitching Odyssey | Dixie DIY | Nette | Lladybird

Thank you so much for all your lovely comments on my last post - I’ve been giving myself some rest so I have not had a chance to reply – but thank you, every single one was much appreciated xo

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Hello Flora Nightshade, the new By Hand London dress pattern – and some amazing fabric courtesy of Tessuti Fabrics (thank you very much!). Colette at Tessuti sent me images of a range of options – and I just immediately fell in love with this strong & striking blue/black classic print.

It’s an amazing cotton sateen with a satin finish… and I just adore black and blue together, possibly my all-time favourite combination.

While predominantly dark, the repeat does have a small amount of white – I chose to use this in the bodice and keep the skirt dark and dramatic.

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Do I take my shoes off at every opportunity? ummm… yes… oh course I trimmed just that little too much off the lining hem and now need to attach some bias tape to the hem to hide the reverse of the fabric. SewIdiotLizzy

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Back view – I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t have to break up that lovely print

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Just proving that sometimes I do wear shoes…

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Just love this shot – even if it is blown out. It’s so soft in comparison to the other images

Pattern Modifications

• I lined the skirt
• I added elastic to the warp bodice edges
• I moved the zip to the underarm so I didn’t disrupt that beautiful pattern.

Hem Alert

Please be aware that I am not particularly tall. People are often (politely) surprised when they meet me. I’m a very unimpressive 5 foot 4. I make the smallest size in By Hand London patterns (US 2 / UK 6). So I’m not just short but also have a very small frame – yes, at some point I forgot to grow in all directions – sorry about that. This skirt is quite short at the front. If you are a leggier lass than me, you might like to consider that when cutting your fabric.

Fabric Choices

I’ve said this once and I’ll say it again… you need WIDE fabric. This fabric was certainly wide enough… except the pattern repeat wasn’t quite centred… so it was either have an off-kilter pattern repeat… which would have been terribly obvious in such a strong and striking print… or centre the print and find a solution.

I was bamboozled for a while… rather than decrease the volume of the skirt, I cut as much of the skirt pieces as I could – which left a triangular wedge at each side of the dress. This needed to be filled – so I cut wedges from the remaining fabric and sewed them into the side of the skirt… see if you can spot them in the above photos!

Even I find the wedges hard to spot – one is directly below my hand in the side shot above.

The wrap bodice

I was concerned about the slight bodice gaping with the Flora AM version.

After some investigation I tried something new *faints*.

I studied Couture Sewing Techniques: Revised and Updated by Claire Shaeffer and came across a technique to prevent necklines from gaping using elastic.

While Shaeffer has you create a tunnel with herringbone stitches along the inside of the neckline which you then thread the elastic through, I was bamboozled as to whether these were in the inside or outside of the lining.

In the end I created my own little technique – well at least I haven’t seen it elsewhere.
After attaching the lining to the front wrap pieces, I then understitched the lining. Then I sewed another line of stitching in the seam allowance, in effect creating a tunnel running alongside the line of understitching. I threaded some narrow flat elastic through this. I secured the top end in the seam allowance. I let the elastic relax and then gently pulled about an inch out at the bottom end and secured it to the seam allowance.

This is no way gathers up the wrap edge but does create a slight tension which helps the bodice sit more firmly against your chest.

Do not gather the elastic up excessively or you will end up with a puckered bodice edge. I dunno that might be the look you are after – but I dare say not.

I don’t think this is a solution if the neckline is gaping massively – it just helps it sit firmer against your chest. I did find taking in the back by straightening up the centre back seam helped the front bodice fit enormously.

Is that clear enough? Or do you need pictures?

Pattern: Flora, By Hand London
Fabric: Cotton Sateen with a satin finish, Tessuti Fabrics

Also see: Dolly Clackett | Gingermakes | Jolies Bobines | Diary of a Chainstitcher | A Stitching Odyssey | Dixie DIY | Nette | Lladybird | Zo Sews

I took this for you Little Stone Cottage…

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Lighthouse Beach, Port Macquarie

and this one is for you Begonia Sews…

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Kookaburra… this one is for your Begonia Sews!

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